The Science of CBD-Infused Beauty Products
The beauty industry is a fickle beast. This skin cream will cure your acne overnight; this shampoo regrows hair; this toothpaste regrows teeth. Okay, we haven’t seen that last one yet, but… come on, give it time. For an industry that’s as synonymous with deception as it is with real “beauty”, you’d be remiss not to approach anyone claiming to have the cure-for-what-ails-‘ya without heavy skepticism.
In a world of snake oil and youth pills, in walks CBD: tipping its hat to everyone from doctors and cannasseurs to said beauty aficionados. While we know that anyone selling their wares has a high incentive to hype – or often, overhype – the usefulness of their product, what do we really know about CBD-infused beauty products? While clinical trials are slim at the time of writing, here’s what we’ve got thus far.
What’s on the market?
Given that the thrust of CBD’s marketing power comes from its purported relief of inflammation, most of what you’ll find is in the realm of topical skin care products. There are CBD-infused lip balms, eye balms, facial serums, mascara, body oils, lotions, bath salts and bath bombs – if it’s available without it normally, there’s a growing chance you can get it with cannabidiol.
There’s also a wealth of CBD-inclusive hair products such as shampoos and conditioners. But, since available research in this area is at a veritable “zero”, we’ll keep our assessment of canna-friendly beauty products focused on the epidermis (skin).
How CBD-infused beauty products (claim to) work
Especially in the case of topical products, producers suggest that CBD may keep skin moisturized in ways that don’t gunk up your pores with dirt or grease, while also reducing visible inflammation, irritation and breakouts. As the hemp it’s derived from is high in vitamins A, C and E, there’s reason to believe CBD oil may also interact with collagen proteins to keep skin feeling firm.
Any takers for an “A-C-E” beauty line?
Do CBD-infused beauty products work?
As with most discussions pertinent to the legal cannabis industry, it’s important to note that clinical research has been stymied due to the plant’s illegal past, and that the sort of sweeping, evidence-based trials that we’d need to provide definitive answers to the “but does it work” question are likely just getting underway now.
Qualifiers aside, some of the most intriguing work on CBD and skin comes from Dr. Tamás Bíró, whose ongoing work suggests CBD may help combat acne by regulating the production of sebum, which can cause breakouts and inflammation when overproduced by the body. Bíró is the director of the immunology department at the University of Debrecen in Hungary, who also serves as an advisor for biotech giant Phytecs. When Bíró’s team tested CBD on human skin cells, it mitigated both inflammation and the overproduction of sebum.
The body is surprisingly “primed” for cannabis, you see: Even for people who don’t use cannabis, the endocannabinoid system controls skin inflammation (among many, many other things). Bíró’s work suggests that if an unwanted irritant comes in contact with the skin, a well-prepared endocannabinoid system can more effectively fight that irritant and the bumpy, pink, itchy misery that ensues.
CBD has also shown antioxidant properties (likely in part to its vitamin C content), which can stimulate collagen production. The human body produces one percent less collagen every year after the age of 20, so this is a big one if aging is a concern.
When it comes to keeping skin “young”, there’s reason to believe it may also fight signs of aging by aiding in the regeneration of skin cells; as Bíró’s research suggests, a robust endocannabinoid system can “…enable life-long regeneration and regeneration of the skin; stem cell supply; wound healing”. Research in this area is still slim, however, so don’t expect CBD to rewind or stop the clock’s relentless war against your face just yet.
The bottom line (thus far)
While the existing research is promising, the lack of population-spanning, academically-sound trials makes replacing your entire beauty routine with CBD products a tough sell. However, as some dermatologists have suggested, CBD is generally well-tolerated by most skin types and isn’t likely to hinder your daily practices if used reasonably.
In the meantime, perhaps it’s best to focus on loving yourself while the white-coats work out the kinks.
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This article was written by David Wilson. David Wilson is a freelance writer and journalist, living and working in Toronto. He writes about cannabis, culture, and the intersection at which they meet.
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This article was published October 22nd, 2019.